Pockets in Women’s Fashion

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A few months ago, I heard an interview with author Hannah Carlson, who is a lecturer in dress history at the Rhode Island School of Design. Hannah’s book, “Pockets: An Intimate History of How We Keep Things Close”, sounded very interesting to me. I know a few women who have purchased men’s jeans to wear while camping or hiking because of the larger pockets. I borrowed the book from my local library and was enthralled with the history and ongoing push for pocket equity.

The history of pockets is oddly quite fascinating. It mirrors broader social and cultural changes over centuries. I’ll try to be brief with my overview. Medieval historians claim that pockets were first used 1,000 years ago. Men and women carried little pouches that hung at their hips from a belt. Men would conceal them inside their coat or tunic while women sewed pouches that matched their homemade skirts.

By the 1600’s, tailors were sewing men’s clothes and including pockets in the pants and coats. Meanwhile, women’s clothes continued to be homemade. Skirts were sewn with slits at the side seam so women could access the pockets hidden under their ample skirts and petticoats.

After the French Revolution, in the late 1700s, women rejected the excessive clothing of the aristocratic class. Dresses changed to having high waists and slim silhouettes sewn with light cotton instead of the heavy brocades and silks used in the past. It was assumed that pockets in these dresses would distract from the curved silhouette of the skirt.

By the 1840’s, skirts became fuller again and occasionally a single pocket, large enough for a handkerchief, was sewn into a side front seam. However, men’s clothing continued to have pockets included in their pants and coats.

In the late 1800’s, a rebellion occurred with regards to restrictive clothing for women. Soon, corsets were on their way out and less restrictive clothing was designed for outdoor activities, like bicycling. Instruction manuals showing how to sew pockets into skirts became very popular and by 1910, a “suffragette suit” with 6 pockets and a pantaloon style skirt was created by a tailor.

During the First World War (1914 - 1918), many women worked jobs previously held by men. More women began wearing trousers complete with pockets. By the 1920s, the famous French designer and businesswoman, Coco Chanel, reintroduced functional pockets in women’s clothing. However, during the 1950s, women were encouraged to ditch the more functional men’s style of clothing for slimmer, more feminine styles, and the pocket disappeared from women’s wear. Handbags had become commonplace during the 1930s. Men had returned to the workforce after WWII, and therefore, pockets in women’s clothing were viewed as less of a necessity.

The expectation that women should carry handbags persists even today. Designers and brands prioritize a slim, streamlined silhouette over practicality, incorporating clothing with fake or non-functional pockets. This can easily be interpreted as a reflection of societal biases and gender inequality. Clothing designer Sali Christeson, co-founder of the women’s workwear brand Argent, states, “Pockets are not even a particularly difficult design challenge to overcome. The fact that more brands are not trying to design better pockets is symptomatic about how lazy they are about responding to women’s needs.”

The absence of pockets forces women to rely on handbags, which can often be inconvenient. Functional pockets are essential for carrying everyday items like phones, keys, wallets, and other personal belongings. They offer the flexibility to move freely without always needing to carry a handbag.

Women-led brands are actively working towards change by challenging traditional fashion norms and advocating for pocket equity. The brand Radian Jeans offers women's jeans with deep, functional pockets. The website clearly states their focus: “women's jeans with deep pockets. Carry your essentials without the bulk.” Another brand challenging the status quo is Dovetail Workwear, which focuses on durable and practical clothing with ample pocket space, catering to women in physically demanding professions.

The push for functional pockets in women's clothing is part of a broader movement toward gender equality and practicality. As consumers, we can influence the fashion industry by letting brands know that pockets are a necessity and a symbol of independence, not just nice to have. Try to purchase clothing that prioritizes style and practicality. By increasing awareness and advocacy, we will likely see more functional pockets in women's clothing in the future.

References:

https://www.changeincontent.com/the-pocket-womens-clothing-functionality/ https://pieceworkmagazine.com/a-brief-history-of-the-pocket-in-womens-fashion/ https://www.abc.net.au/news/2017-10-18/history-is-the-reason-dresses-hardly-ever-have-pocket s/9057314 https://foragedesign.com/blogs/blog/pockets-and-the-patriarchy-how-fashion-has-reinforced-gen der-inequality#:~:text=As%20the%20suffrage%20movement%20gained,but%20also%20autono my%20and%20freedom. https://medium.com/verve-up/the-bewildering-and-sexist-history-of-womens-pockets-1edf3a981 17

Young Minds Eye Foundation

ENVISION YOUR FUTURE

Pockets in Women’s Fashion

By: Marion Desplenter

Examples above show the variety of shapes and materials pockets were sewn with. They could be homemade from scraps of fabric or bought from a seamstress. Pockets were often gifts created to match the skirt and were used well into the 1800’s.

Fashion images from the early 1800s show women in gowns carrying small but expensive bags as an accessory. These were called reticules in France and "indispensibles" in England.

The skirt is made in two parts, likemen’s trousers and includes hip pockets, so if the “suffragette" wants to make a speech she is able to puther hands in her pockets. The coat isshort, with “regulation men’s pockets, revers and lapel buttonhole”.

YME Volunteer 2024